a week in Puglia

Summer started with a week in the Puglia region of southern Italy with one goal in mind: relax and recharge. Okay, so a bit of exploration was a part of the plan, too, but the main goal was to unwind after a long school year with a sojourn void of strict schedules and a long list of "must-do's." Wouldn't you know it? Puglia is the perfect place for this. 

Aside from the selection of the lodging, neither of us conducted much detailed research for this trip. (So, who am I kidding? Richard never conducts research before a trip. That would be my vice. I totally cramp his style.) We booked a week at Masseria Selvaggi in an apartment in a renovated farm house, or masseria, in the countryside near Cisternino. While I generally don't report much on lodging when we travel, I must share this place with you (and the rest of the world.)

It is charming, traditional, clean, locally owned, fairly priced, old-made-new ... many of the things we seek for in week-long lodging. However, by far ... by far, by far, by far the thing that makes this place a gem that we will return to is the porprieter, Gregorio. I cannot possibly accurately describe the wonders of this man and his team. Let me try.

A native of the area, Gregorio is a man with a wealth of information who is ready for any questions presented to him. (I had many ... remember, no research.) He is kind, knowledgable, and delightfully helpful -- all of these without being intrusive. He tolerated our prying questions about the quality of his olive oil without taking offense and sent us to a superb caseificio for burrata. He checked beach conditions for us each morning, suggested dining options, sketched directions on napkins, led us to grocery stores and wineries.  He is genuine. He is sincere. A kind and gentle soul. I like him, a lot. (And in case you were wondering, he does speak English.)

Though each apartment includes a kitchen, breakfast is served in a dining room each morning.  The offerings were simple but local and fresh, and quite varied: farm-fresh eggs, prosciutto and melon, home-baked goods, figs still warm from the morning sun, and coffee to order (or tall glasses of milk for Young One) were among the choices. Gregorio helped guests plan excursions primarily during this breakfast time, but he was also available throughout the day.

We spent time each day at the pool located steps from our door, a pool surrounded by a traditional Pugliese stone wall and a collection of trees (Oak, I think) and a giant prickly-pear cactus. A grove of ancient olive trees and golden wheat fields surround the wall on all sides for as far as my eye could see. Though all of the apartments were booked during our stay, we often felt like we were alone at a spa in the middle of paradise as the other guests scurried off to the beaches each morning.  (No, I'm not exaggerating. It was THAT good for us.) 

Though the property is located within an olive grove, a lush mini-forest with trails for exploring exists there as well. Explore we did.

The only drawback of a place like this is the general absence of potential playmates for Young One. She did connect with a tween from Milan one afternoon in the pool, allowing us time to read and a three-year-old boy from Bolzano another evening while both families prepared dinner. You know, the absence of a slew of others allowed us time to be together, to connect, to chat without distractions. The rest of our summer was mostly without these opportunities as Young One ditched us for her (often) doting relatives.

We left with plans to return here  -- same place, longer stay. We generally do not return to most places we visit, even when we have great intentions. (This place is one exception.)  I have my fingers crossed that a return here is in the stars for our little party of three.

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Up Next: Outings

Yes, we did leave this little paradise a time or two. You didn't think we could tolerate that much alone and down time, did you? I mean, we were there for seven nights.