summer 2014 snapshots | Ischia

summer 2014 snapshots

We got around this summer.

I hope to share a bit of those comings and goings.

Photos are generally iPhone, 

many already published on Instagram.

Arrive at the port via hydrofoil and rent scooters. 

Take your lovely children on a tour of the island, 

with a stop or two at the water before settling on 

Spiaggia Cava Grado near St. Angelo.

Swim in the cool blue waters.

Enjoy lunch at the beachside trattoria. Take lots of photos of your lunch.

Relax.

Lament the fact that you only have one day in Ischia.

Start plotting your next visit.

Ischia

Spiaggia Cava Grado

To reach this beach, head to St. Angelo, and just before the descent into St. Angelo, in the area where the public busses gather, there is a small road on the right that heads down to it. Parking is sparse, except for scooters, of course, so it's best to arrive by one of those busses or taxi.

Why we love it?

It's small, relatively hidden, not particularly crowded, family oriented, quiet...with a spectacular view. There is also a full-service bar and trattoria (only a few tables, arrive early and reserve your spot!) with outstanding food at fair prices.

The downside?

The stairs could be a challenge for some. Also, the small public part of the beach was packed by the time we arrived mid-day. We did carve out a corner, but it wasn't ideal. I doubt that the bar is open year round. Also, my niece, who went exploring a bit, is convinced a small snake bit her bottom while she was in a cave-like area. The stuff of nightmares! She is a tough one. 

More on Ischia:

That time we visited the island for about a week

body image @ the pool

We met up with some friends at the American pool today, the pool inside the guarded area of the military housing complex; it's not my favorite place to visit, but I went for the sake of the friendships.

As we were prepping to leave, Young One was quite upset because she was unable to locate the top half of a particular swim suit, the one that offers the most coverage without being a one piece, the one we bought in the States. When I suggested that she just wear the other bikini, the one with far less coverage, the one bought in a local Italian store, she absolutely refused. She has worn both all summer, mostly in Italy. After a bit of conversation between us and some pressure from me, including a reminder that she was entirely comfortable in this swim suit and with going topless at the beach and pool in both Caorle and Ischia, she told me that Americans wear different swim suits and when she is with them, she wants to be like them. "I don't want to be different, Mamma." Fair enough.

Topless with Matteo in Ischia 

We reached a solution when she found a suit tucked away for next year that is a bit big now. I let her wear it.

After a couple of hours at the pool, I noticed the young lifeguards on the other side of the pool preoccupied with something near us. I looked around and all seemed well. Kids were well-behaved...adults, too. I could not imagine the source of their concern. Eventually one of the young lifeguards came over to tell the German mother next to us that her toddler must wear a bottom at all times. The baby was maybe 18 months old. The baby was not in the pool. The baby was not running around like a crazed kid. It was break time, and her mother removed her swim diaper for a bit. She must wear a bottom. It's the rule. (Ironically, she didn't require a swim diaper bottom, you know, for the purposes of hygiene. No, just a bottom, even while hanging out on the deck with your Mom and her friends.) What the heck?

With Crazy Cousins at Grandma and Paw's Pool

Later, as we were leaving, an Italian friend arrived at the pool with a gang of his visiting in-laws and his two young boys. (Both wore bottoms, by the way.) I just happened to be near a couple of the young lifeguards when one of the well-tanned bikini-clad aunts ( in her late 50's) entered the pool. Those teens snickered and sneered and giggled...obviously bothered by the body of the woman. What the heck?

...................

Young One already feels the different attitudes about body image between the two cultures. Those teens are simply products of our American culture. I just hope with all my heart that my girl is blessed to be able to choose Italian on this one and reject all those Puritan influences that haunt American culture today.

PS. If you think I'm suggesting that I think she should be running topless at the American pool or on a beach with Matteo when she is sixteen, then you have sorely missed the point! And I have no doubt that Italian women deal with body image issues as well. What I experienced today is somehow a separate issue from those. 

Mare Adriatico

We hung out at two beach spots over the course of the week: Torre Canne and Torre Santa Sabina. In Torre Canne we spent time at both the public beach and a private lido; no private lidos exist (in late June) at the small Torre Santa Sabina. I convinced Richard that we should haul our umbrella and chairs from Vicenza, and he reluctantly agreed. I say reluctantly because my man, my wonderful man ... he is many things, a beach lover is not one of them.

He loves the ocean, the water, the lake, the river, the babbling brook . . . mostly from a distance, or from his fabulous balcony in Pozzuoli that had the views of Capri and Ischia. The good old days.

Sand? He despises it. As a result, his idea of an okay time at a beach includes a private lido with a covered walking path to the lettini, or lounge chairs. Oh, and there should also be a sharply dressed attendant to take drink and snack orders. Who wants to carry all that stuff, anyway? 

Young One and I are much more flexible.

I like the public beaches.
I like for him to haul our stuff.

We did both styles of beach visits.

Compromise, that's what makes it work.
In the end, he usually compromises the most.
I'm lucky. I know.

We really enjoyed the beach scenes in this area of Puglia. With the high winds, the open waters at Torre Canne were perfect for fun with the tube, while the protected cove at Torre Santa Sabina allowed for a bit of a calmer experience. In both cases the water was crystal clear and the beaches clean. The high winds did keep us away from Torre Canne a couple of times.

I liked it because it was simple, and at Torre Santa Sabina, very natural and entirely low key. These beaches were full of Italians, locals and those on vacation, and we didn't hear many foreign voices like our own. We had plenty of space at the public beaches and didn't have to fight for a spot. At Torre Santa Sabina, nearly the entire beach cleared at lunchtime as people returned to their homes or rentals for lunch and rest. The new crowd started arriving at about 14:00.

People were in good moods. They were relaxed. They were happy. They were worshipping the sun. Life was good. The best part? Not too many people. Yet.

Reportedly, Puglia has much more to offer in terms of beautiful beaches; the further south one travels, the better. Or so I am told. Friends visited the Gargano peninsula, which is a bit north of where we were, during the same week and reported excellent beaches there, too.

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